Saturday, December 1, 2012

THE PARLIAMENT IN STRASBOURG FRANCE


    THE PARLIAMENT IN 
  STRASBOURG, FRANCE






   On most of our travels outside Bruxelles, we choose to go via the train.  It is less hassel than driving, and actually cheaper.  On this particular occasion we were going to Strasbourg, France for meetings with three members of the European Parliament. The European Union has two capital
cities - Bruxelles and Strasbourg -  a manifestly expensive and inefficient arrangement, however,
in deference to the Alsace-Lorraine origins of the EU founding genius, Robert Schuman, and at the
insistance of France, the dual capital-city anomaly remains.  It is as if the U.S. had two capitals -
Washington, D.C. and New York City!  


                
                          Sister Peterson is always in style, even awaiting the arrival of our train. The city of Strasbourg is also the location of the European Court of Human Rights and the Council of Europe (47 member states, including the Russian Federation, whereas the EU has only 27 member states).  These multiple institutions make up what has been called "Europe's Constitutional Mosaic."  Notice the
World War I memorial behind her in the Central Station. The tragedy of war is never far from the
thoughts of the Belgian people who have paid such a high price for their freedom.



                     

When the train made a stop along the way in Luxembourg, we were not aware that three border "Politie" officers had boarded the train.  As they came into our car, they came directly to us (we certainly stood out as Americans) and asked for our passports. Unfortunately, we had neglected to bring them with us, as we saw no need given the new open borders in Europe, so there was quite a discussion (in French of course) as to why we did not have them.  They spoke no English, and we very little French.  The officer in charge kept motioning that we had to get off the train...in other words..... "no passport, no come into our country"!  We could only show them our Belgium residence cards, which we thought were enough, but French bureauacracy was holding firm.

Well the train was moving along the tracks at a pretty good clip, next stop Strasbourg, and there was no way we were going to get off that train!!!   Probably out of frustration on their part and with little communication, they finally continued checking other passengers throughout our car.  We had become used to driving throughout Belgium, northern France and the Netherlands without our passports, since the "Schengen Agreement" (technically the U.S. is not a party) has done away with routine border checks between most EU countries. Can you imagine if you had to show an identity card to travel between Virginia and New York, or California, Arizona, and Utah!

The only other passengers they questioned in our car were the two young Asian  men sitting across the aisle from us.... other obvious foreigners!  Only they HAD their passports!  We learned a big lesson about always having our passports with us when we leave the Belgium. We mistakingly thought  that since we had our Bruxelles resident ID cards, that they would be sufficient!!  OOOPS!  I am sure that when the Politie officers got off the train at the next stop, they were probably muttering something about ..."those craaaaaaazy Americans"!!!



Happy to have arrived and ready to go to work! We represent both the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and the International Center for Law and Religion Studies at the Brigham Young University, where David is a Senior Fellow at the J. Reuben Clark Law School.  Our message is one of strong support for religious liberty, and the principles embodied in the First Amendment to the United States Constitution: "Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion or prohibiting the free exercise thereof."
 
The first president of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, the prophet Joseph Smith, Jr., was a strong advocate of religious freedom.  He declared: "If it has been demonstrated that I have been willing to die for a 'Mormon,' I am bold to declare before Heaven that I am just as ready to die in defending the rights of a Presbyterian, a Baptist, or a good man of any other denomination; for the same principle which would trample upon the rights of Latter-day Saints, would trample upon the rights of the Roman Catholics, or of any other denomination who may be unpopular and too weak to defend themselves."
 
 

                   We stayed at this classic and charming boutique hotel in the heart of Strasbourg.
This area is known as "the land of three frontiers", because Alsace-Lorraine is a major European crossroads where Belgium, France and Germany come together.  The French writer Victor Hugo (1802-85), who spent a good deal of time in Bruxelles, thought that Europe's history ran down the
Rhine River.  This thoroughfare of commerce and culture is the only thing separating Germany's Black Forest from the Plaine d'Alsace.  Known as a pawn in the power game of nations, the population of Alsace-Lorraine actually changed nationality five times between 1871 and 1945!



We thought Strasbourg was a beautiful city with many waterways, swans and boats, and of course, always bicycles everywhere!!!  The Alsatian dialect is a unique hybrid of  French and German, going back beyond the World Wars to deep Roman and Frankish influences.  Traveling down by train we were impressed with the pastoral vistas of vinyards and low hills, dotted with clusters of wood and stone buildings, ever present flower boxes and green fields now quietly marking  graves of forgotten soldiers of the lost generation.



We found a very cozy restaurant in Strasbourg within walking distance from our Hotel.  It was so good we took all our meals here at "Michelle's".  The weather was a "leettle" cool in Strasbourg! 
However, the residents were warm and friendly, which made up for it.  When you ask any Belgian or Frenchman if they speak English, the answer is always the same.............."a Leettle".....it may be a simple "yes" or "no".........but that qualifies as "a Leettle".  Everyone is very happy to stop and give directions, and we enjoyed walking through the old town where we were staying.

 






We took a self-guided tour of the Strasbourg cathedral and enjoyed a brief concert inside. It is considered to be one of the finest example of high, or late, Gothic architecture.  Constructed between 1647 and 1874, it was the world's tallest building from 1647 to 1874.  The architecture is incredible, and the stained glass windows are beautiful.  It makes one wonder how they could acheive these architectural feats so many hundreds of years ago!  Victor Hugo described it as a "gigantic and delicate marvel," and Goethe said it was a "sublimely towering, wide-spreading tree of God."


               
                                           Did you notice the gentleman in the blue coat?


On the return trip home I was reading my scriptures and David was sitting across from me reading the Glenn Beck book, "Being George Washington", a gift from our daughter Paige.  All of a sudden he whispered to me..."look across the aisle to see what that man is reading"... 




It was interesting to see the four different reading choices! The Rabbi from Antwerp was reading the Torah in Hebrew; the younger generation representative was reading messages on his iphone while listening to itunes; Dee was reading her Book of Mormon scriptures; and David was studying the life of his favorite U.S. president.

We enjoyed a pleasant conversation later in the journey with our new Jewish friend, and told him about our calling as Diplomatic Representatives to the European Union. It made us think of James Madison's great statement: "The religion then of every man must be left to the conviction and conscience of every man; and it is the right of every man to exercise it as these may dictate. This right is in its nature an unalienable right."

We are hopeful that Europe will become a model of religious and cultural tolerance as Christians, Muslims and Jews make their way toward a peaceful and prosperous existence together in a democratic and law-oriented society of nations. The Universal Declaration of Human Rights (1948), adopted in Paris by the United Nations in the aftermath of World War II, provides an excellent statement of aspirations: "Everyone has the right to freedom of thought, conscience and religion; this right includes freedom to change his religion or belief, and freedom, either alone or in community with others and in public or private, to manifest his religion or belief in teaching, practice,
worship and observance." (Article 18)


ON THE TRAIN AGAIN....
THIS TIME HEADED FOR
ANTWERPEN, BELGIUM




Magnificent train stations throughout the countries of Europe, and high-speed trains, make travel efficient and quite pleasant. This scene greeted us as we arrived in Antwerpen, Belgium for meetings.





Professor Wilfried DeCoos, and his wife Carine, hosted us in Antwerpen, where he was a professor of linguistics at the University. This lovely garden is on the grounds of the home and studio of the artist, Peter Paul Reubens (1577-1640).




Reuben's early training was in Genoa, Rome and other Italian cities, however, his most productive years were spent in Antwerpen. In 1610, two years after returning from Italy, he and his wife, Isabella, bought a house on Wappen Street which they enlarged after his own design with a covered semicircular statue gallery, a magnificent studio, a portico reminiscent of a triumphal arch, and an Italian-style gazebo. It was said that the newly-built sections of the house gave his home the air of an Italian palazzo which embodied his artistic ideals of Roman antiquity and the Italian Renaissance.


Our friends, Wilfried and Carine, were perfect hosts and embody the
refinements of gracious living, artistic appreciation, and the "old school" cultural heritage.
  Wilfried's father was the director of the Museum Mayer van den Bergh, housing the hidden Antwerpen collection of Pieter Bruegel.  As a boy, Wilfried  would spread his papers out on the museum floor, and on a small desk under priceless works of art, do his homework!





The Reuben home has been restored to its original 17th century charm and is filled with many of his finest works of art on religious themes from the life of Jesus Christ. We saw huge paintings by Reubens in the Antwerpen Cathedral measuring up to 490 x 325 cm (16 x 10 feet) all painted in his Wappen Street studio. In his time, Reubens was considered the most important painter in Europe. In order to meet the demand for his work, he was assisted by many young apprentices who would fill in the details after he painted the broad outlines. One of the most talented was Anthony van Dyck who went on to a glorious international career as court painter to the British crown.







This inner courtyard, leading through a magnificent portico to the garden behind the house, was beautiful! Reubens was inspired by antique Italian architecture and this arch is a direct reference to a gate designed by Michelangelo. (If it is impressively good, why not produce your own version!) The text above the right arch reads: "Mens sana in corpore sano" (pray for a sound mind in a healthy body.)  Good advice in any age of history!  From above, Mercury on the left (the "god of painters") and Minerva (the "goddess of wisdom") look down.  The message is clear: this house is a temple of    knowlege, dedicated to the art of painting.



Two sweethearts enjoying a summer's day in Reuben's garden!




The Antwerpen city hall, while not quite on the scale of the Grand Place in  Bruxelles, has a special feel of medieval grandeur to it. We enjoyed a nice lunch nearby and thought of the long history of town "burghers" who had lived here and gone about their business over the centuries. This was perhaps best captured in the paintings of  Pieter Brugel.  Some of you will recall the Brugel painting of the festive dinner scene which hangs in our Arizona home, a reminder of the many, many meals Darelyn has provided to generations of missionaries!





Some things never change!



 In the town square of Antwerpen, we rendezvoused with a professional tour guide that Professor DeCoo had arranged for us. It was a great blessing to have such a friendly and  knowledgeable guide show us the highlights of the Old Towne, the Cathedral and splendid museums in the heart of the city. 
 
 


The Pantin-Moretus Museum contains the oldest printing presses in the world going back to the 1500's. It was here that William Tyndale (1492-1536) completed his translation of the Old and New Testaments from Hebrew and Greek, leading to the first English Bibles to be printed and disseminated from Antwerp. His associate, Miles Coverdale, saw Tyndale's work through to completion following his strangulation and death at the stake outside Bruxelles. There Tyndale cried out "Lord, open the King of England's eyes!" Earlier, under intense persecution for heresay in England,  he had proclaimed to a Gloucestershire cleric: "If God spare my life, ere many years I will cause a boy that driveth the plough shall know more of the scriptures than thou dost."
 
Both statements proved prophetic and were fulfilled. The first, in 1540 with the publication, at the King's order, of four English translations of the Bible based on Tyndale's pathbreaking work; the second, in 1820 when the young ploughboy, Joseph Smith, read in James 1:3-4: "If any of you lack wisdom, let him ask of God, that giveth to all men liberally, and upbraideth not; and it shall be given him. But let him ask in faith, nothing waivering. For he that wavereth is like a wave of the sea driven with the wind and tossed."
 
 Tyndale's beautiful words, inspired by the Holy Ghost, had lead to the boy's first prayer and the sacred appearance of two heavenly beings which he described thusly: "I saw two Personages, whose brightness and glory defy all description, standing above me in the air. One of them spake unto me, calling me by name and said, pointing to the other -  "This is My Beloved Son. Hear Him." The heavens were no longer closed and God had spoken once again!

 


Should we not count the Plantin and Moretus families, with their printing expertise, among those whom the Lord had prepared in the 15th century to assist in the coming forth of the Gospel in the far distant 19th century?  Yes, yes, yes! Erasmus of Rotterdam, the great humanist, profoundly influenced young William Tyndale with his words: "It has long been my cherished wish to cleanse the Lord's temple of barbarous ignorance, and to adorn it with treasures brought from afar, such as may kindle in generous hearts a warm love for the Scriptures."




Here we see a painting of Tyndale and his associates. His biographer has stated: "The victory went to those who were the more worthy of it.  With all their mistakes, the reformers showed grit and a driving force, a moral backbone, which was lacking in the humanists. They launched their boat in swirling waters; they risked their lives to purge the church; they lived dangerously and whole-heartedly, and  they had their reward....If apt and well aimed words could have reformed the church, Erasmus would have transformed it. None saw the need more clearly than he....But his deeds were not correspondent with his words.  He sat still, and let things take their course....Sterner souls...rode the storm on which he feared to venture."



Biblia Latina, Albrecht Pfinster (circa 1460)



Around 1450, Johannes Gutenburg in Mainz, Germany, became the European pioneer of printing using lead type. He achieved a great milestone in the history of printing when he began printing the Bible which bears his name from 1452-1455, with 42 lines of type per column. His associate, Albrecht Pfister, of Bamburg, Germany, possibly under the supervision of Guttenburg who had made the typeface, began printing a 36 line edition in 1460.  Here we see pages from a three-volume second edition dated 1460! This Bible was donated in 1514 by the Augustine monastery in Nuremburg, Germany to its sister institution in Antwerp, and came into the possession of Christopher Plantin around 1570.

It was in this fervent 16th century religious milieu that, some years later, we find the origins of the Pilgrims and their voyage to America. Their quest for religious freedom has become central to the history and culture of the United States. It was Tyndale's translation of the Bible into English which permited anyone with a desire to study the scriptures to read and decide for themselves the great questions of salvation. In 1608, a group of English Puritans broke away from the Church of England because they felt a desire for greater Truth and freedom. Crossing the English Channel to escape religious persecution and harrassment, they emigrated to Amsterdam and then Leiden, Holland. Discouraged by economic difficulties, twelve years later they voted to attempt the perilous voyage to America and a new world of opportunity and liberty. Thus, an "errand in the wilderness" began when the Mayflower sailed from Plymouth, England on September 6, 1620 with 102 passengers. In early autumn 1621, the 53 surviving Pilgrims celebrated their first successful harvest, joined by native Americans and "their great king Massasoit with some ninety men." Thus, our First Thanksgiving in America came about. The Massachusetts Bay Company arrived in 1630.  Under the enlightened leadership of John Winthrop, and drawing upon the powers of heaven, a "city on a hill" would arise as a beacon of hope to the world - the United States of America.
 
During these early years of religious printing and ferment, Plantin skillfully navigated the cross-currents of religious controvery and political conflict, to become the largest printing establishment in Europe. His son-in-law, Jan Moretus, was the first of ten generations to run the business. In 1876 the building and its contents were sold to the City of Antwerpen and the Belgian government for a museum because of financial difficulties. It contains the two oldest printing presses in the world (circa 1600),  640 ancient manuscripts and 25,000 volumes of priceless history, many original Reubens paintings, maps, and musical scores.... treasures large and small!




Jan Moretus the First, and his wife, Martine, daughter of Christopher Plantin, the founding genius.

How did they keep it in the family for ten generations? Let me suggest that the answer is to be found in the firm's motto: "Labore et Constantia" (Through Labor and Constancy). Interestingly, Reubens was a good friend of the family and designed the printer's mark of the firm. Erudite linguistic imagery shows a pair of draftsmen compasses, with the implication that a pair of compasses has both  a fixed and an "active" leg.  Greek mythological figures of Hercules (symbolizing "Labor") and Constantia (symbolizing "Constancy") are engraved on each side of the central compass motif. Why was it all sold in the end? While preserving a timeless glimpse into the past, what caused these changes? The answer seems to lie in the fact that the Industrial Revolution passed the Plantin-Moretus firm by like a ship in the night.  Stagnation set in without the needed innovation to maintain competitiveness. Any lessons for Europe and other nations today?


The Print Room


Here is contained a large collection of printed images from the 16th and 17th centuries. Books were illustrated by famous artists, including Reubens, Van Dyck, and Jordaens, thus initiating "graphic art" as an independent art form. The painting by Reubens on the wall, depicting the crucifiction of Christ, adds a very sobering feeling to the serious work which would go on in this room. Also, we note the bust of the great humanist (and family friend) Justus Lipsius on the right.  Interestingly, he is the "patron saint" of the European Union and a more than life-size bust dominates the inner foyer of the
European Council Chamber named for him in the heart of Brussels.


Old world art is depicted on every wall of this masterly preserved firm and elegant 16th century residence. If only the walls could talk about the conversations of religion, the comings and goings of 400 years ago, the unique language of Sacred Writ flowing from the pen of William Wycliff! It was new, it was inspired, it was of a divine cadence which would come to roll off the tongue of millions of Christians: "For unto you is born this day in the city of David a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord. (Luke 2:11) "For the people shall dwell in Zion at Jerusalem: thou shalt weep no more: he will be very gracious unto thee at the voice of thy cry; when he shall hear it, he will answer thee. (Isaiah 30:19) "Ye are the light of the world. A city that is set on a hill cannot be hid." (Matthew 5:14) "And the sea rose by reason of a great wind that blew. So when they had rowed about twenty or thirty furlongs, they see Jesus walking on the sea, and drawing nigh unto the ship: and they were afraid. But he saith unto them, It is I; be not afraid." (John 6:18-20) "For where your treasure is, there will your heart be also." (Luke 12:34)



AT THE END OF THE DAY

Following a very busy day of seeing this beautiful and very historical city of Antwerpen, we were all exhausted from racing from one historic museum to another.   Brother and Sister DeCoo drove us back  to their very lovely home, outside the city center.  Since Brother DeCoo's father for many many years operated a museum filled with the art of the Masters, his own home also was filled with beautiful paintings and antiques.   He told us that when he was a boy, when he left school at the end of the day he would go directly to his father's museum, where there was a small desk set up for him to do his homework, in front of the famous Pieter Bruegel paintings!!  So, his father's love and appreciation of art, was passed on to Brother DeCoo. 

 However, as impressive as all these museums and paintings were.......it was their newly landscaped large yard that took our breath away, with this very unique water feature, only a few inches deep.  Gorgeous!!!   I'm going to keep this idea in mind.  The DeCoo's home was modern and lovely, and Carine had skillfully set a beautiful dinner table.  She then presented a very delicious dinner, prepared in their "state of the art" new kitchen!   It was a delightful day, and the DeCoos went out of their way to make it very special for us. 


NOT MANY HAVE BACKYARDS LIKE THIS!




BEAUTIFUL!

 

Thank you DeCoos for a wonderful day in Antwerpen!!


MAY THE LORD BLESS US ALL AS WE STRIVE TO LIVE RIGHTEOUS LIVES...
AND MAY GOD BLESS OUR BELOVED UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

Au Revoir!




 

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